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Every diamond is different, incorporating a complex
constellation of factors that determine the rarity of each stone.
Although gemologists train for years to master the art and science
of diamond appraisal, with a little basic instruction, anyone can
learn how to read an appraisal and compare the grades of different
stones.
Each diamond is as unique as the person who owns it. Just as a
diamond reflects the color of the light it bears, it should also
reflect the personality of the individual who wears it. Here lies
the art of selecting a diamond, for yourself or as a gift.
Your knowledge of yourself, if you are buying for yourself, or
your knowledge of a loved one, if the diamond is a gift, is
expressed in your selection. Through your choice of a diamond, you
are making a public statement about the loved one--and about your
relationship--and that statement is repeated every time the
diamond is worn.
This is why, for many women, there is such mystique in diamond
jewelry gifts, and why, for many men, there is such uncertainty in
its selection. What is important in the selection of a diamond has
little to do with the cost of the jewelry and much to do with the
richness of the relationship.
Truly flawless diamonds are very rare, and very expensive, so
you will seldom face the task of selecting a perfect diamond. It
is a fairly simple matter to find beautiful diamonds with no flaws
visible to the naked eye and buy them at reasonable prices.
Diamonds are graded using a system that judges the stone on its
color, clarity, cut and carat weight - commonly known as the
"four C's." Diamonds of uncommonly high quality and size
are often sold as "certified diamonds" and come with a
certificate that proves the stone's value. Even non-certified
diamonds, however, should be evaluated using the four C's to help
determine cost.
In this section, you will learn what each of the C's means and
how it affects the value of the diamond. Although it takes a
trained eye to actually see the qualities described here, knowing
what they mean can help you make a good choice in selecting your
diamond.
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Diamond Color |
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Most diamonds appear colorless but actually
have slight tones of yellow or brown. The closer the stone comes to
colorless, the more valuable it is. Diamonds are graded on a color scale
ranging from D (colorless) to Z (heavily tinted.) Only a highly skilled
professional will detect any color in E or F stones, and the color in
diamonds rated up to J will be virtually invisible when set in a ring or
other jewelry.
Color is only one of the four C's so even when a stone has a visible tint,
such as K or above, it can still be very lovely if it has good clarity and
cut. How the diamond is set can make a difference, too; you might not want
to put a truly colorless diamond in a yellow gold setting since the yellow
color will reflect in the stone. On the other hand, a slightly yellow
stone will appear whiter in a yellow gold setting.
Diamonds also come in a wide variety of other colors, including red, blue,
green and a bright yellow known as "canary." These are graded as
Z+ and are known as "fancy" diamonds. Ones with good color are
very rare and can sell for much more per carat than white diamonds.
The following is the GIA color scale, which is very commonly used in the
United States:
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Diamond Clarity |
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It is very common for diamonds to be formed
with slight imperfections. These are known as "inclusions" and
can come in many forms, including tiny white points, dark dots, or
feathery cracks. The fewer inclusions, the more the stone is worth. A
diamond's clarity ranking is determined by the number, size, type and
placement of the inclusions.
A stone with only a few hard-to-see pinpricks located near the edge, where
they can be covered by the mounting, has better clarity than a stone with
a crack located right under the table (the large top facet of the stone).
Cracks from the surface to the interior are especially dangerous because
the diamond could break if hit the wrong way. On the other hand, small
nicks and chips on the surface are often of little concern because they
can be polished away.
For the most part, diamonds used in jewelry are clean to the naked eye. In
a certified diamond, the cracks are charted on the certificate and act as
a fingerprint for identifying a particular stone.
The following is the GIA clarity scale, along with corresponding
definitions for different clarity grades, which is very commonly used in
the United States:
| FL |
FLAWLESS |
Free from all inclusions or
blemishes at 10x magnification. |
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| IF |
INTERNALLY FLAWLESS |
No inclusions visible at 10x,
insignificant surface blemishes. |
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VVS1
VVS2
VS1
VS2 |
MINOR INCLUSIONS |
Difficult to see face-up at 10x. |
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SI1
SI2 |
NOTICEABLE INCLUSIONS |
Easy to see at 10x. |
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I1
I2
I3 |
OBVIOUS INCLUSIONS |
Easily visible to unaided eye. |
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Diamond Cut |
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In the strictest definition of the term,
"cut" is not the same thing as "shape" - for example,
the most popular cut for a diamond is the round brilliant cut, but there
are also round Swiss cuts, round Old European cuts, and round 144-facet
cuts. For the most part, however, the terms are used interchangeably,
including on this site.
The 58-facet round brilliant cut is the most popular because of its fire
and brilliance. (These terms describe the intensity of the color and
brightness of the light one sees in a diamond.) This is achieved by
cutting the stone to very exacting mathematically-determined proportions
so as much light as possible is reflected out the top of the diamond.
The cut of a diamond refers not only to the shape of the diamond and
number of facets, but also to the quality of the cut. A diamond with
uneven or poorly proportioned facets won't be given the same grade of cut
as an ideally proportioned and masterfully cut stone. This information
will be found on the certificate of a certified diamond.
Although most diamonds on the market today are round brilliants, there are
many different shapes available. The following chart shows some of the
most popular shapes:
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| round |
pear |
heart |
oval |
marquise |
emerald |
princess |
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Diamond Carat |
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Carat is the term used to describe the weight
of any gemstone, including diamonds. Although the definition of a carat
has changed over time, since 1913 the international standard has been 200
milligrams, or 1/5 of a gram. Often, jewelers describe carats in 1/4
increments.
In jewelry pieces with more than one diamond, the carats may be described
in terms of total carat weight (TW). This is the combined total weight of
all the stones in the piece.
Diamonds can range in size from a fraction of a carat to several carats.
Given the rarity of large stones, however, the price increases rapidly
with size; therefore, a single 2-carat diamond will cost much more than
two 1-carat diamonds. Very large diamonds with good color and clarity are
very rare.
Expect to pay a premium for stones that are above a full carat weight. For
example, a .95 carat diamond will cost a bit more than a .90 carat stone,
but a 1-carat stone will cost significantly more than a .95 carat stone.
Because round brilliant cuts follow exact standards, you can make a good
estimate of the carat weight of the stone based on the stone's diameter.
The following chart compares the relative sizes of stones and describes
how much a round brilliant diamond of a certain size is likely to weigh.
This method doesn't work as well for other cuts or shapes, though, since
some are thicker or thinner than others; nor does this chart apply to
colored gemstones, which have a different density from diamonds.
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| .03 |
.05 |
.07 |
.10 |
| 2.0mm diameter |
2.5mm diameter |
2.7mm diameter |
3.0mm diameter |
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| .15 |
.20 |
.25 |
.33 |
| 3.4mm diameter |
3.8mm diameter |
4.1mm diameter |
4.4mm diameter |
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| .40 |
.50 |
.65 |
.75 |
| 4.8mm diameter |
5.2mm diameter |
5.6mm diameter |
5.9mm diameter |
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| .85 |
1.00 |
1.25 |
1.50 |
| 6.2mm diameter |
6.5mm diameter |
7.0mm diameter |
7.4mm diameter |
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| 1.75 |
2.00 |
2.25 |
2.50 |
| 7.8mm diameter |
8.2mm diameter |
8.6mm diameter |
9.0mm diameter |
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Diamond Care |
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While diamonds are the hardest minerals, they
still require some care to keep them looking their best and to protect
them from loss or damage.
A regular professional cleaning is recommended. Diamond jewelry can easily
acquire a buildup of dirt, makeup and other materials that diminish its
brightness, especially if it's worn every day. Many jewelers, including UsedJewelry.Net Jewelers,
offer professional cleaning. Avoid using ultrasonic cleaners if your
diamond has a serious crack or inclusion. The vibrations of these cleaners
can enlarge such flaws.
What could possibly scratch a diamond? Another diamond. To prevent such
scratches, separate diamond jewelry in your jewelry box. Diamonds also can
scratch other gems or jewelry, especially soft items like pearls. And even
though diamonds are hard, they can be brittle, especially along thin
edges. Try not to wear your diamond when it might be struck sharply, and
if you have an especially thin cut, keep it protected.
Perhaps even more distressing than chipping a diamond is losing one. When
you go in for cleaning, ask the jeweler to check the setting and make sure
the stone is secure. If it seems loose, bring it in for repair
immediately. Also avoid setting diamonds in very soft metals like 24k
gold, which bends easily.
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Diamond Science |
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For all the beauty and complexity of a
well-cut diamond, they are the simplest of gemstones in the chemical
sense: pure carbon, the same as the graphite in a pencil. They are formed
under intense heat and pressure deep within the earth, and are forced to
the surface by geological events.
Diamonds are harder than any other material on earth, earning them a 10 on
the Mohs' scale of hardness. They can only be cut by other diamonds. Their
hardness and other special qualities, such as how they refract light,
allow them to be cut into the amazing gems we know today.
Gem-quality diamonds are mined around the world, but the largest producers
are South Africa and its neighbors. Russia, Australia and Brazil are also
major producers. Diamonds come from the mines in crystals, often with
eight sides. As much as 60 percent of the original crystal is cut away to
create a round brilliant diamond.
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Diamond Myth |
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Diamonds have been at the heart of myth and
legend since their discovery. Medieval knights wore them uncut on their
armor in the belief that they could make a person invincible, a myth no
doubt related to the stone's hardness. There are legends of a diamond that
could reveal the guilt or innocence of a person. Diamonds could also drive
away the devil, and in the days when gems were believed to cure disease
and ill fortune, diamonds were thought to amplify the magical powers of
other stones a person wore.
Almost universally, diamonds have been associated with virtue, purity,
strength, wealth, power, and love - and, not surprisingly, diamonds have
been associated with sex, too. So it was a small jump for diamonds to
become the modern symbol of love - diamond wedding rings have been popular
for hundreds of years. They were believed to ensure fidelity and
strengthen emotional bonds. Today, they are the preferred gift for all
manner of romantic occasions.
There is one important footnote to the magic of diamonds: the magic was
lost if the stone was acquired by purchase. When found or given as a gift,
however, it would convey its power to the recipient, which no doubt
accounts for how diamonds became such a popular gift between lovers.
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