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Shop our Gemstones
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Despite the immense popularity of diamonds, colored gemstones
have always been among the most popular and expressive forms of
jewelry. The bright colors of colored gems give each a unique
personality, and personal tastes in color often dictate
preferences for particular stones.
Long before diamonds were found worthy of jewelry, people
revered sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and all manner of colored
stones. In addition, almost all colored gems were believed to have
special powers or cure specific illnesses. There was a time when a
collection of different gemstones was the equivalent of a medicine
cabinet!
Today, gemstones are still loved for their beauty and
"personality." The precious gemstones - sapphire, ruby
and emerald - are among the most prized. Precious gemstones of
good size and quality are so rare that a natural, unenhanced,
strongly colored stone can be worth as much per carat, or more,
than a diamond of comparable quality.
Given the extreme cost and rarity of such stones, jewelers
developed ways to enhance the appearance of more common stones,
both precious and semi-precious. For hundreds of years, it has
been common practice to heat gems to bring out their best color.
This is viewed as simply extending what nature started, since it
is the heat and pressure within the earth that gives gems their
color.
There are many other common types of treatment to enhance the
beauty of colored gemstones. Emeralds are often oiled and waxed to
protect them and to hide fine lines that naturally occur in the
stone. Some sapphires have their blue color enhanced using
diffusion, a chemical process. Certain stones are treated with
radiation, again mimicking the processes of nature. All these
practices are standard in the jewelry industry; in fact,
enhancement is so common that good quality unenhanced stones often
come with a certificate stating that fact.
Other than the oil on emeralds, which can last for years before
needing replacement, any quality enhancement is permanent and
should not require special care. With emeralds, you should simply
be careful not to clean the stone too vigorously or you might
remove the layer of wax or oil, changing the appearance of the
stone. If this happens, bring it to your jeweler to have the layer
reapplied. Bringing your emerald in for a cleaning and re-oiling
on a regular basis will help keep it looking its best.
Synthetic or "lab-created" stones, on the other hand,
are grown using the same ingredients as the natural stones. They
are chemically identical to natural stones, but more affordable,
and its easier to get a large, well-colored lab-created gem than a
natural one. Lab-created gems frequently have fewer
"inclusions," the internal flaws common in precious
gems. With technical advances, many high quality lab-created
stones can only be differentiated from a natural by a trained
professional. Almost any gem can be made in a lab, but the
precious gems - emeralds, rubies and sapphires - are the most
common.
Included in each gemstone description below is its Mohs'
Hardness Rating, based on the system developed by Austrian
mineralogist Friedrich Mohs to compare the relative hardness of
different minerals. The scale ranks from softest (talc, with a
ranking of 1) to hardest (diamond, which is the only mineral
ranked 10). Hardness is the resistance to scratching. When various
minerals are scratched against each other, any mineral with a
higher hardness ranking will mark any mineral with a lower
ranking.
PRECIOUS GEMSTONES
Only three colored gemstones are considered precious. These are
the emerald, sapphire and ruby, which have retained their prized
positions among jewels due to their extraordinary colors and
extreme rarity. Precious gemstones with good color and large size
are very hard to come by. Because of their rarity, it is common to
use stones with inclusions and blemishes in jewelry.
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Emerald |
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Shop our Emeralds
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Green to
bluish green. |
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The most valuable form of beryl and one of the world's most
precious gems. Color comes from chromium. Mohs' hardness rating of
8, but sometimes brittle.
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Emerald is one of the most valuable gems on the market. The
brilliant green of a fine emerald is unmatched by any other stone,
and the extreme rarity of top-quality emeralds - the most prized
emeralds come from just a handful of mines in Columbia - make it
fairly costly. However, there are supplies of emeralds coming out
of other mines.
Almost all emeralds have inclusions in them; the fewer these
impurities, the rarer and costlier the stone. Because of these
inclusions, emeralds can be brittle, so protect your emeralds from
hard contact when you wear them. Ultrasonic cleaners, which use
vibrations to remove dirt and buildup, can be dangerous to heavily
included emeralds. Natural emeralds also tend to have thin
scratches on the surface. A layer of wax or oil is usually applied
to smooth out their appearance and enhance their color. This layer
may have to be replaced professionally every few years.
It was believed to sharpen wits, bring wealth, foretell the
future, tell whether a lover was lying and cure all types of evil
and illness.
Emerald is the birthstone of May.
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Ruby |
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Shop our Ruby
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Various
shades of red. |
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Corundum (aluminum oxide), the same family as sapphire, with the
color coming from chromium. Mohs' hardness rating of 9.
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Along with the emerald and sapphire, ruby is one of the most
prized colored gem available. The main quality of the ruby is its
bright red color. The best color usually comes from Burma and is
very costly; stones from Thailand are darker but clearer and much
more common. Only red stones are called rubies. If the color is
too light to be called red, it is a pink sapphire.
Corundum, the main material of ruby, is the second-hardest
material known after diamond. Inclusions and flaws are fairly
common, and many rubies are treated to enhance their color. In
general, one should look for a bright red stone with as few
inclusions as possible. Synthetic rubies offer good color, clarity
and size, and are more affordable.
Rubies were the most valuable gems in ancient Southeast Asia,
where they are found. A fine ruby had all sorts of magical powers.
Its color was thought to come from an undying flame inside the
stone - or, in some legends, a piece of the planet Mars - and it
allowed its owner to live in safety, even in the midst of enemies.
It was believed to bring its owner all kinds of protection and to
stop bleeding. In Burma, it could make one invincible - as long as
it was embedded in the skin. In more modern times, rubies became
the symbol of love and passion.
Ruby is July's birthstone.
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Sapphire |
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Shop our Sapphire
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Blue,
pink, green and yellow. |
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The colored varieties of corundum, with the color coming from iron
and titanium. Mohs' hardness rating of 9.
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Any color of corundum except red is called "sapphire,"
although cornflower blue is the most popular and sought-after
sapphire color. Sapphire comes from the same places and in the
same qualities as its sister stone, ruby, with the best color
coming from Kashmir and Burma. The name "sapphire" alone
refers to the blue variety. All other colors have the color name
added to the stone, as in "orange sapphire," "pink
sapphire" etc.
Sapphire often has some inclusions, but clarity is still quite
good. Its base material, corundum, is the second hardest in
existence and so wears very well. Often, the sapphires used in
jewelry are heat-treated or given chemical diffusion to enhance
their color; these enhancements are permanent. Like rubies and
emeralds, there are good synthetics available for people who like
the color but not the cost.
Sapphire is said to be a mind-opening gem. It is supposed to relax
the wearer and clarify thought, as well as attract "divine
favor." On a personal level, it prevents envy and fraud, and
brings truth and good health. It also was said to be a powerful
antidote for poison.
Sapphire is the birthstone of September.
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Ceylon Sapphire |
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Slightly
greenish blue to violetish blue. |
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Genuine sapphires, part of the Corundum gem family. Mohs' hardness
rating of 9.
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Genuine sapphires, including Ceylon sapphires are part of the
Corundum gem family and are second only to diamonds in hardness.
This strength makes them an excellent choice of jewelry because of
their durability.
Ceylon sapphires are mined primarily in Sri Lanka (formerly
Ceylon). The sapphires mined in Sri Lanka are known for the unique
color they produce. Because Ceylon sapphires occur naturally, the
color of the stone varies.
Colors range from very pale blue to the most vibrant, almost
electric blue hue.
Often, sapphires used in jewelry are heat-treated or given
chemical diffusion to enhance their color, these enhancements are
permanent.
Sapphire is the birthstone of September.
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SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMSTONES
The value of semi-precious gemstones can vary depending on the
availability of the mineral; natural black opal, for example, is hard to
come by and more valuable than most other semi-precious stones. As a rule,
however, semi-precious stones are always more plentiful than precious
stones. That makes it easier to find large, well-colored, very clean
stones appropriate for jewelry. In addition, the wide range of colors
available makes semi-precious stones the choice for people who want to
create their own look with their jewelry.
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Amethyst |
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Shop our Amethyst
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Pale
lilac to deep purple. |
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The most precious form of quartz, amethyst receives its color from
iron and manganese. Durable, with a Mohs' hardness rating of 7.
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Amethyst was a valuable gem until the discovery of large deposits
in South America in the late 1800's; Brazil is the primary
exporter to this day, although it is common in many countries.
Still, its deep and attractive color makes it extremely popular.
Banding - darker and lighter zones of color - is quite common. A
good amethyst will be very clear, and the deeper the color, the
better. The most common enhancements are heat and irradiation. Try
not to expose an amethyst to excessive amounts of bright sunlight,
as this can fade its color.
Perhaps the most unusual magical power ascribed to the amethyst is
its ability to prevent drunkenness. It also is supposed to bring
peace of mind to the wearer, and if properly carved, prevent fatal
poisoning. In some legends, it represented piety and dignity.
Amethyst is the birthstone for February.
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Aquamarine |
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Shop our Aquamarine
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Pale
blue, greenish to deep blue. |
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A variety of beryl, like emerald. The color comes from iron. Its
Mohs' hardness rating is 8, making it very durable.
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Although aquamarine comes in many colors, the most prized is a
rich, clear, watery blue. Fairly large and clear aquamarines with
good color are among the more valuable semi-precious gems. They
are often given step cuts, also known as "emerald" cuts,
much like aquamarine's mineral sister, emerald. Good clarity is
important in these stones, especially lighter ones where flaws
will be more visible. Brazil is the primary source of aquamarine,
although it is mined in other places as well.
Aquamarine has long been a positive stone according to legend,
bringing with it health, hopefulness and youth. It was
traditionally a favorite of sailors, and is said to be a good
choice for anyone who loves the sea. It could also bring love and
affection if worn properly. Its supernatural powers were
remarkable; legend has it that a person with an aquamarine in his
or her mouth could summon the devil and get questions answered.
Aquamarine is March's birthstone.
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Citrine |
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Shop our Citrine
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Pale
yellow to golden amber. |
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A counterpart to amethyst, citrine is quartz with iron. It has a
Mohs' hardness rating of 7 and wears quite well.
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Citrine is a clear yellow form of quartz and is often confused
with yellow topaz; citrine, however, is more abundant. Because of
its abundance, there are plenty of fairly large, clear stones
available for jewelry. Clarity and a rich yellow color are keys to
look for in a citrine. It has some of the same characteristics as
amethyst, such as alternating bands of lighter and darker color,
but these bands are harder to see in citrine. Citrine often comes
from Brazil.
Citrine is a cheerful gem. Its powers are said to include making
its wearer lighthearted, bringing cheerfulness in tough times and
offering hope. It was also believed to help relax people and expel
impurities from the body. People who wore citrine could expect to
look healthy and feel happy.
Citrine is the birthstone for November.
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Garnet |
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Shop our Garnet
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Red and
most other colors except blue. |
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Silicates of aluminum, iron and magnesium; the level of iron or
magnesium determines the color. Mohs' hardness rating of 7.
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While garnet is often viewed as a ruby substitute, it has its own
unique qualities that can be appreciated on their own. It comes in
a variety of colors, including many shades of red, from very pale
to brick to a red-black. It comes in larger sizes, usually has
good clarity and has a respectable hardness that allows it to wear
well.
Like many red stones, garnet was once believed to stop bleeding.
It was a symbol of loyalty and energy, promoted sincerity, and was
said to have illuminative powers, both physically and spiritually.
Garnet was also said to alleviate anger, promote tranquility and
offer protection in health and travel.
Garnet is the birthstone of January.
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Onyx |
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Shop our Onyx
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Black and
white or gray, or black and red to brownish red. |
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Opaque variety of quartz with alternating black areas interspersed
with lighter-colored lines. Color from silicon dioxide. Mohs'
hardness rating of 7.
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Onyx is part of the chalcedony family of colored quartz, which
includes agate, cornelian and jasper. The striking black and crisp
lines of onyx makes it especially popular for jewelry. Because the
lines can form in many different ways, each piece of onyx has a
unique appearance. Onyx is also popular for cameos - when an image
is carved into onyx, the color of the next band shows through.
Onyx is opaque, meaning no light shines through it. Therefore, it
is usually cut into a smooth, rounded, polished dome called a
cabochon.
Onyx has a variety of myths associated with it. On one hand, it
was supposed to drive away evil and high tempers. On the other, it
was said to cool the passions of love and promote independence
between lovers - which can be good or bad, depending on one's
point of view. Some people even believed it was a symbol of
discord, a belief probably suggested by the sharply divided lines
in the stone.
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Opal |
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Shop our Opal
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Iridescent
white
(and sometimes black). |
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Semi-translucent silicon dioxide with patches of many colors
showing through. Mohs' hardness rating of 6.
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Opal is made of the same ingredients as quartz, except it contains
a little water and has not been compressed into crystals. As a
result, it is softer than quartz and has to be treated a little
more carefully to avoid damage. The shifting colors seen in opal,
called "fire," are the result of microscopic spherical
structures within the stone which reflect different wavelengths of
light depending on their spacing, creating the colorful shimmering
effect. There is no other gemstone that looks remotely like it. It
comes in both black and white varieties, with black being the most
rare. Australia is the principal source of opal today. Like other
non-transparent stones, it is usually cut into a smooth, rounded,
polished dome called a cabochon.
Some legends say that opal is good for the eyes, both improving
vision and warding off eye troubles. It also has a reputation for
sharpening the mind and the emotions. Opal is a symbol of
fidelity, but it came with a price, since it would bring trouble
to someone who was unfaithful.
Opal is October's birthstone.
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Peridot |
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Shop our Peridot
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Pale lime
to olive green. |
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A crystal form of magnesium, iron and silicon. Its color varies
with the proportion of the ingredients. Mohs' hardness rating of
6.
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Peridot is an ancient stone, mined at least as long ago as the
ancient Greeks. Peridot is also often called chrysolite or
olivine, which is the proper name for the mineral. Its color is
its most important quality, and can range from yellow green to a
striking chartreuse. (The chrysolite name, in fact, often refers
to peridot that is more yellow than green.) The stones have good
clarity and are appropriate for faceted cuts since light sparkles
through them. They are relatively soft and should be protected
from abuse.
Peridot offered protection from depression and deception in Roman
times, was used for inspiration and eloquence in the Middle Ages,
and was also used to cure liver disease and promote friendship. In
general, it was believed to ensure good thoughts in the mind of
the wearer.
Peridot is the birthstone of August.
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Tanzanite |
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Shop our Tanzanite
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Pale to
deep violet and blue. |
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Crystal of zoisite, a mineral formed of silicon, calcium and
aluminum. Has a relatively soft Mohs' hardness rating of 6.
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While zoisite has been known for some time, gem-quality zoisite
wasn't found until 1967, when a deposit was uncovered in Tanzania.
This is still the only source for tanzanite, one of the most
recent additions to the gem world. It gained almost immediate
popularity both for its scarcity and its rich, blue-violet color.
It is often heat-treated to bring out a uniform color. While a
prized stone, caution should be used when it is worn in rings,
since it is fairly soft and can be scratched or chipped. Although
it usually has good clarity, tanzanite can be damaged by
ultrasonic cleaners, so other cleaning methods are recommended.
Needless to say, as a recently discovered stone, tanzanite has no
ancient legends associated with it.
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Topaz |
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Shop our Topaz
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Pale blue
to pink to yellow. |
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A mixture of silicon, aluminum, fluorine and hydroxyl. Comes in
many colors, with blue most common. Mohs' hardness rating of 8.
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Topaz, and especially blue topaz, has grown in popularity over the
years. The "pure" topaz color is yellow, and was often
confused with chrysolite, the yellow variety of peridot. However,
the use of distinct colors has helped topaz come into its own.
Blue topaz in particular is popular in jewelry today. It has a
watery blue similar to aquamarine, but often without the green
overtones, and its hardness and good clarity make it an excellent
gem. The blue color is often enhanced through heat-treatment and
irradiation.
Topaz was believed to have incredible medicinal powers in the
Middle Ages, even against the plague. For a healthy individual, it
brought about a pleasant disposition and patience and was a symbol
of fidelity and love.
Blue topaz is December's birthstone.
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